One thing I’ve noticed with a lot of people is they have a lot of clothes but only wear a few. There could be many reasons for this. For example, their “fancy” clothes are only suitable for special occasions but since most days are just not special, they only wear simple but comfortable clothes most of the time. Not only do their clothes consume a lot of space, they may not realize that many of their clothes just don’t fit them anymore or they may no longer like how they look on them. People may also forget just how nice some of their clothes look on them until they try them on again. One way to get organized with your wardrobe and remind yourself of your clothing options and how you look in them is by creating a wardrobe photo inventory.
Here’s how to create a wardrobe photo inventory using Google Photos.
1. Group clothes by type
First, group all your clothes by type, e.g.
Outerwear
Sweaters
Jackets
Tops
Short-sleeve Dress shirts
Long-sleeve Dress shirts
Short-sleeve Polo shirts
Long-sleeve Polo shirts
Short-sleeve T-shirts
Long-sleeve T-shirts
Turtlenecks
Bottoms
Jeans
Cargo Pants
Khaki Pants
Dress Pants
Fitness
Tracksuits
Sweatpants
Vacation
Hawaiian shirt
Beachwear
Swimming clothes
Shoes
Hats
Costumes
Other
2. Create a photo studio
Find some space, like a spare bedroom, and create a photo studio using
For the camera, you can use your phone. I used my Insta360 Ace Pro action camera with flip screen. By enabling the hand gesture feature, I can just make a peace sign with 2 figures to tell the camera to take a photo in 3 seconds.
The green screen will make it super easy to remove the background from the subject (you). I just used push pins to stick the fabric to the wall (drywall).
The softboxes will make your face and clothes appear bright and sharp with balanced lighting without any shadows. Here’s a comparison of photos taken with and without softboxes.
3. Take photos
Go through all of your clothes and take photos of yourself wearing them. When deciding what to wear, I find it convenient to have a tall mirror with Hollywood lights around the perimeter near my closet like this one on Amazon.
3. Option A: Edit photos in Photoshop
If you know Photoshop or how to do image editing, you can follow this step.
Open your first photo in Photoshop
Remove the background. Photoshop will detect the background and show a “Remove background” button. Click it to remove the green background.
3. Crop the image to remove unnecessary whitespace.
4. Replace the background with any background you like. Here’s what I chose.
5. Repeat that process for all photos.
6. Use horizontal and vertical guides to resize each photo so they are the same width and height.
7. Optionally, group the layers by clothes type, e.g.
3. Option B: Edit photos in Google Photos
If you don’t know Photoshop or how to do image editing, you can do basic image editing like cropping directly in Google Photos. Upload all photos to Google Photos and click the Crop button to crop the photos.
4. Upload all photos to Google Photos and enhance them
For each photo, click the Enhance button to improve the levels, brightness, etc.
5. Create an album and group photos by type
In Google Photos, select all photos and add them to a new album with a name like “Clothes”.
Click the 3 vertical dots in the top right corner to reveal options. Click the “Edit album” option.
Select one or more photos and drag them to rearrange them.
Click the “Add text” icon to add text between groups of photos.
6. You’re done!
Now, you can browse your wardrobe on your phone to visually remind yourself of what clothes you have and how they look on you the next time you’re undecided about what to wear.
If you need to create a very strong and long-lasting loop at the end of a rope, the best practice is to use a thimble along with a fastener. The faster can be a ferrule or rope clamp.
Wire rope is preferred because it is much stronger than non-wire rope like nylon, polypropylene, paracord, etc.
The benefit of a rope clamp is you can unlock the clamp and reuse the rope for something else. Also, you just need pliers to tighten the clamp nuts. The benefit of a ferrule is its small size and permanent nature. However, you would need a special crimping tool. Ideally, you would use a hydraulic crimping tool.
One tricky part when creating such a loop is getting the thimble to be snug and tight. Following is one way to do it, which worked for me.
First, make sure you use a thimble that is the right size for the wire rope you are using. In the example below, the wire rope is 1/8′ thick, so the thimble is for that size rope. If you use a smaller thimble, I found it harder to get the thimble tight and snug.
Slide the rope through the ferrule to create a loop. Then, clamp the rope using locking pliers as shown above.
Next, insert the thimble and pull the ferrule toward the thimble until it touches the thimble. If you are having difficulty making the ferrule and thimble stay touching each other, try making the short end of the rope longer.
Insert the correct size die for the ferrule in the crimping tool, then insert the ferrule in between the dies within the tool to clamp it. Follow the instructions to clamp the ferrule. Before clamping, ensure the thimble and ferrule are still touching each other for a permanently tight fit.
Clamp down multiple times as hard as you can. When do, turn off the hydraulic crimper to release the clamp.
You’ll see that the crimping crimped the ferrule, creating a permanent clamp.
First, you need to design your shirt by finding some images. You want the images to be SVGs so that you can scale the image without losing quality. To make the shirt shown above, I searched Google for “visit California logo svg”.
I found a “California” logo that I like, but I needed to edit it to remove the “visit” part.
I then searched for “california bear svg” and found a bear image that I liked.
After doing some image editing, I ended up with these 2 images.
Determine printed image dimensions
Lay your shirt down and, using a tape measure, decide how wide each image will be. For the “California” logo that would go over the chest, I chose 9 inches.
For the bear image that would go on the sleeve, I chose 5 inches.
These dimensions are not final. We will preview the design using cardstock (thick paper) first before using vinyl.
Import the images into Cricut Design Space
Download, install, and open Cricut Design Space. Follow the guided setup. Then, click the Canvas tab and then the “Upload” icon to upload each image. For the “California” text, I uploaded a large PNG on a transparent background and then set the width to 9 inches.
Do the same for the bear image. Since the Cricut Explore 2 machine can accommodate vinyl up to 12 inches wide and my video is 12 inches wide, I positioned the bear image below the “California” text.
After setting the width of the bear to 5 inches. I selected both image layers in the right column and chose “Attach” so that I could cut both images at the same time.
Cut images from the cardstock
In Cricut Design Space, click the green “Make” button. You will see a preview of the images on the mat.
You will see a preview of the design on the board. To make weeding easier, cut a sheet of 65lb cardstock large enough to accommodate the design. In this case, I round up to the nearest inch, so my cardstock will be 10″ x 6″.
Then, place the cardstock on the lightgrip mat as shown in the preview above.
Click “Continue”. Connect the Cricut machine to your computer via bluetooth or USB. Once Cricut Design Space detects your machine, you will follow a 3-step process to cut the images on your chosen material.
Make sure the dial on the machine is set to “Custom” because we will choose the material type in Cricut Design Space.
For step 1 (Set Base Material), click “Browse All Materials” and choose “Value Cardstock – 65 lb (176gsm)” since that’s the material we’re going to use first.
For step 2 (Load tools and material), make sure the correct blade is loaded in the correct clamp, load the material into the machine, and then press the flashing Load/Unload button on the machine.
When you press the “Load/Unload” button, the machine will grab and pull the mat a little to prepare it for cutting.
For step 3 (Press Go), just press the flashing “Go” button on the machine. Since we are printing on cardstock, where both sides of the cardstock are the same, we don’t need to toggle the “Mirror” option.
Once cutting is complete, click the “Load/Unload” button to unload the mat.
Notice the outline in the cardstock showing where the cardstock was cut.
Remove the cut images from the cardstock
Remove the cardstock from the mat and separate the cut images from the rest of the cardstock. Use a weeding tool, if needed.
You should be left with this.
Preview cut images on a shirt
We’ll want to preview how the cut images appear on our shirt. To do this, cut the transfer tape in the size as the cardstock – in this case, 10″ x 6″. Cut straight lines as that will make it easier to center and position the design on the shirt.
Remove the transfer tape from its backing.
Place the transfer tape over the cut images and press it on the cut images.
Remove the transfer tape using a weeding tool to keep the cut images stuck to the tape.
Cut the transfer tape around the individual images.
Wear your shirt and place the cut images on the shirt where you want them to go.
The size of the “California” text looks good to me.
The size of the bear, on the other hand, looks way too big.
Iterate
Since the bear looks too big, I’ll reduce the size from 5″ wide to 4″ and 3″, repeat some of the previous steps, and see how that looks.
This is how the 4″-wide bear looks on the sleeve of the shirt. It still looks too big.
This is how the 3″-wide bear looks. I think that’s a good size.
Now that we have our images and final dimensions, we’re ready to cut the images on heat-transfer vinyl (HTV) and iron them on our shirt.
Prepare images
Follow the same steps as above except instead of a 4″-wide bear, make it 3″ wide.
Trim heat-transfer vinyl
The vinyl I bought is an 8-foot long roll that is 12 inches wide. Since our mat is 12″ x 12″, I cut it to make it easier to work with.
I actually have some leftover vinyl from a previous project, so I’m going to use that.
Cut images from the vinyl
In Cricut Design Space, click “Make” and then “Continue”.
For step 1 (Set Base Material), click “Browse All Materials” and choose “Everyday Iron-on”
For step 2, you’ll notice 2 things:
For iron-ons, the “mirror” must be turned on. This flips the images so that when they are ironed on, they appear correctly. Cricut Design Space automatically toggles this on for you.
You need to place the iron-on material face (shiny side) down on the mat.
For step 3 (Press Go), go ahead and press go to start cutting.
Trim heat-transfer vinyl
Remove the vinyl from the mat and trim away material from the designs. To make it easier to position and align the designs on a shirt, I like to cut straight lines around the designs so I end up with perfect rectangles.
Remove the dull side of the vinyl
Use a weeder tool, if necessary.
You should be left with your designs on a transparent liner.
Determine design placement on shirt
Measure where you want the designs to be on the shirt. I’m going to position the top part of the “California” text to be about 3.75″ from the top as shown below.
Turn on heat press
Turn your heat press on and set the target temperature to 315 degrees Fahrenheit. Set the timer to 5 seconds.
Press the designs on the shirt
Put the shirt on a bath towel on a hard surface like the floor.
When the heat press is ready, place it on the shirt for 5 seconds where the design will go. This will remove wrinkles from the shirt.
Set the heat press timer to 30 seconds
Place the design on the shirt exactly where you want it to go.
Since I cut the design in a perfect rectangle, I could measure from the edge of the rectangle to various points on the shirt to ensure the design is straight and centered.
Optionally, secure the design to the shirt using heat transfer tape.
Place a sheet of teflon on the design to protect the shirt and the heat press.
Place the heat press on the design until the 30 second timer is up.
Wait one minute. Then, remove the transparent liner from the design. If the design comes off the shirt, then put the heat press back on and press firmly on it for another 30 seconds.
Once the transparent liner is removed, I like to put the teflon sheet over the design and apply the heat press once again for 30 seconds.
Now, let’s apply the bear to the sleeve. Lay the shirt down such that the seam is at the bottom and in the middle.
Cut a piece of cardboard and insert it into the sleeve as shown below. We need the surface of the top part of the sleeve to be flat. Otherwise, the design can be ruined due to the bump from the seam.
Remove wrinkles from the shirt by place the heat press on it for 5 seconds.
The brown cardboard could cause discoloration in the white design. Cover the cardboard in the sheets of teflon first as shown below.
Secure the teflon to the cardboard using heat-resistant tape.
Place the design on the sleeve where you want it.
Put a sheet of teflon on the design.
Press the heat press firmly on the design for 30 seconds.
Wait one minute. Remove the transparent liner.
Optionally, place a teflon sheet on the design and apply the heat press again for 30 seconds.
The finished product
Removing vinyl
If you make a mistake, this video will show you how to remove vinyl from your shirt.
If you have a photo that is too small and you wish it were wider or taller, you can use Photoshop’s Generative Fill feature to fix that. Here’s an example.
Open the image in Photoshop
Enlarge the canvas
Let’s say I want to make the image wider. Using the Crop tool, enlarge the canvas.
When you do this, you’ll see a command prompt below the image.
Click Generate
If you just click Generate, Photoshop will fill in the empty parts to blend in with the original image.
Try custom commands
You can also tell Photoshop how you want to fill in the empty space. For example, if I write, “Fill the empty space with a jungle”
Adjustable-color LED Light Bulbs (This is for the sconces. I set the color to pink.)
Uplights (This one on Amazon lets you change the color of the light) In the picture above, I just have one behind the sofa with a soft white (yellow) light.
LED Light Strip (I got mine from Costco. You can adjust the color.) In the picture above, this is the blue light behind the TV.
1.5 RPM Speed Disco Ball Motor(I chose a speed of 1.5 RPM. Faster speeds make the lights move too quickly, which is distracting and headache-inducing)
Spot Light (This is for the mirror ball. I bought this one because it allows me to adjust the aperture size / spot diameter.) In the picture above, I put it on the ottoman facing up to light up the mirror ball.
Northern Galaxy Light Aurora Projector (In the video above, I set the color to red (R) and blue (B) and disabled the green “star” lights. It’s on the ottoman and illuminates the ceiling).
If you have old, low-res photos that you want to enhance and upscale or if you want to zoom in on a hi-res photo while preserving quality, you’ll be impressed with what artificial intelligence (AI) can do. Compare the following.
Original Photo
This photo was taken in Cairo, Egypt back in 1997. The original photo was 640 by 480 pixels. I’ve cropped it to focus on the subject. It’s now 238 px wide.
Photoshop
In Photoshop, you can increase the dimensions of an image. I’m going to enlarge it by 300% to 714 px wide.
Here are the results using the “Automatic” resampling option. Notice the graininess.
Now, I’ll do the same using the “Preserve Details (enlargement)” option with a 50% noise reduction.
Here are the results. It’s less grainy, but still not sharp at all.
I’ll try one more time. Below are the results with 100% noise reduction. Still not great.
Here are the results. This is definitely an improvement compared to Photoshop.
Topaz Labs Photo AI
Now I’ll try Topaz Labs Photo AI 2.4.0. This software costs $200, so I’ve just taken a screenshot of the preview. As you can see, the results are way better than both Photoshop and Spyne. There is no noise and everything is sharp, including the hair. If the face looks a bit too soft, you can sharpen it in Photoshop under Filter > Sharpen.
So there you have it. Successfully upscaling an image using AI with realistic results.
A lower third is a text title or graphic overlay placed in the lower region of the screen. Motion Graphics templates are a file type (.mogrt) that can be created in After Effects or Premiere Pro. Here’s an example of a motion graphic lower third.
There are many motion graphic templates for lower thirds available online, e.g.
In this tutorial, I just get a free one from Mixkit.
Download MOGRT template
Download this free template and unzip it. You’ll get an mogrt file and an mp4 file showing how the animated title looks.
Add a video to your timeline in Premier Pro
Drag a video to the timeline pane.
Open the Essential Graphics pane
Click on Window > Essential Graphics. You’ll see the Essential Graphics pane on the right.
Install the mogrt file
In the Essential Graphics pane, click the “Install Motion Graphics template” button in the bottom right corner. Browse to the mogrt file and click Open. The template will appear at the top of the list of templates in the Essential Graphics pane.
Drag the template to the timeline
I dragged it to the V2 track.
Edit the template
Double-click the motion graphics clip in the timeline (pink bar) to edit the template. Depending on the template, you can edit the text, colors, size, positioning, etc.
Preview the lower thirds title
Click the play to preview the lower thirds animated title. You may find the duration to be too short.
Extend the duration of the lower thirds title
Move the playhead in the timeline to the point where the title text is fully shown and not moving. At that point, right-click on the motion graphic clip in the video track (pink bar) and click on “Insert Frame Hold Segment”.
This will split all clips at that timestamp and the motion graphic clip will be split such that you can extend the middle subclip, which is the clip containing the frame showing the full title text, to increase the duration of the title. You will need to move the right subclip of the animated title to the right to make room to extend the duration of the middle subclip.
For the split video clip, just drag the right clips toward the left clip.
You may end up with something like this.
Preview the animated lower thirds title. If it looks good, export the video. Otherwise, tweak the title further.
The video below is the same video but with the text removed.
We can remove objects like text and watermarks from videos using Adobe After Effects (AE) content-aware fill feature. Here’s how I did it for the video above.
1. Open your video in Adobe After Effects
Choose “New Composition From Footage” and select your video.
2. Shorten work area
The content-aware fill takes a long time to process. To speed up testing, shorten the work area to a 2-second section by dragging the blue start and end markers on the timeline.
3. Create a mask
Click a tool like the pen tool and create a mask area around the object (in this case, text) you want to remove.
4. Adjust mask settings
In the video track, expand the Masks and select “Subtract”. For the Mask Feature, choose 20 pixels for the vertical and horizontal feather. For the Mask Expansion, choose 20 pixels as well. Play with these settings until you find values that produce good results.
These changes cause the mask to look like this
5. Adjust content-aware fill settings
If the content-aware fill pane isn’t open, open it by going to Window > Content-Aware Fill.
For the alpha expansion, I set the value to 13. You can experiment with different values.
For the fill method, choose “Object”.
For the range, choose “Work Area” because we only want to apply the fill to the short 2-second work area for now.
Click the “Generate Fill Layer” button. You will be asked to save the project if you haven’t already done so. You will then see AE analyze and generate the fill layer.
You will see the fill layer above the video layer in the list of tracks / layers.
6. Preview the content-aware fill layer
Click the play button in the preview pane to preview the content-aware fill.
This is how it looks for me. I think that looks good. If it doesn’t look good, go back and tweak some of the previous settings and try again.
7. Apply content-aware fill to the entire range containing the text to remove
Move the blue start and end work area markers to the beginning and end where the object / text you want to remove.
Disable the test content-aware fill layer by toggling the eye icon.
In the content-aware fill pane, click “Generate Fill Layer”. AE will create a new content-aware fill layer above our test layer. If the work area duration is long, this will take time to process.
Content-are fill will go through an analyzing phase followed by a rendering phase.
8. Preview complete content-aware fill effect
Click the play button in the preview pane again to see how the fill effect looks in the entire clip. If it looks good, you can export the video.
9. Export the video
Click File > Export > Add to Render Queue.
If the output location is unspecified, choose an Output To location. Then click the Render button.
Update: Use a reference frame for better results. The more reference frames, the better the results.
In this post, I’ll show you how to make an animated travel map like the one below using Apple Keynote.
1. Get an image of a map
I usually just go to Google Maps, zoom in/out to the area I want to show, then take a screenshot. In this example, I took a screenshot of the USA because I want to show an animated flight path from San Francisco to Miami.
2. Crop map and optionally add labels
Open the screenshot in an image editor (I use Photoshop) and crop to your target video resolution. My target resolution is 1920 x 1080 (standard HD). I also added some red dots where the start and end points will be as well as some city labels.
3. Get a transparent image of a plane, car, train, boat, etc
Since I want to show an airplane animate along a path, I looked for an image of one in Google Images. The background should be transparent. In Google Images, you can choose Tools > Color > Transparent to find images on a transparent background.
I chose this image.
4. Create a blank Keynote presentation
Open Apple Keynote and choose the basic white theme.
You will get a single slide. Select and delete everything in the slide.
5. Insert background map
Go to Media > Choose and select the background map.
6. Draw a path
Go to Insert > Line > Draw With Pen and draw your travel path.
Click on the start point then click on the end point. You will get a straight line.
In the middle of the line, there will be a point. Click and drag it up if you want to create a curve. Repeat with other midpoints as necessary.
When you’re done, hit the ESC key. We now have our travel path. Let’s change the style of the path. I’m going to make it red and thick. In the right pane, under Format > Style, you can edit the style of the element (curve). I choose a red color that is 7 pt thick.
7. Animate the path
In the top right corner, choose the Animate tab and then “Add an Effect” > “Line Draw”.
You can then change the default animation from 2 seconds. I changed the duration to 10 seconds so that in my video editor, I can slow it down without it appearing jumpy. I also changed the acceleration to “None”.
Click the “Preview” button to preview the path animation.
8. Add the airplane image
As in step 5, go to Media > Choose and select the airplane image.
Scale the airplane by dragging one of the corners. Drag the airplane to position it at the start point.
Rotate the airplane. In the top right choose Format > Arrange and adjust the rotation value such that the nose of the plane is aligned with the flight path.
9. Animate the airplane
In the top right, click Animate > Action > Add an Effect > Move.
Drag the airplane to the end point. Set the duration and acceleration to match that of the flight path (10 sec, None).
Click Preview to preview the animation. The airplane doesn’t yet follow the flight path. Check the “Align to path” checkbox. A point will appear along the line between the airplane’s start and end points. Drag that middle point to where the flight path is.
Click Preview again. You will see the airplane animate along the flight path.
10. Animate the flight path and airplane at the same time
In the top right, click Animate > Build Out > Build Order.
You will see a list of all animation effects. The first animation is the line (flight path). The second is the plane. Choose te second animation and then under “Start”, select “With Build 1”.
11. Export the animation
Choose File > Export To > Movie.
Since there’s only 1 slide, you can leave “Slides” to “All. The resolution should match that of the background image (1080p).